Today (in 2019) the island has almost 80 crags with over 3400 sport climbing pitches, all perfectly equipped. Do not take shortcuts. Great efforts have been made toward consistent grading, but since routes on Kalymnos are equipped by climbers from all over the world, and some of these routes have not yet seen their second ascent, some may need re-grading. Besides corrosion, the carabiners on lower-offs were excessively worn: some permanent carabiners on lower-offs were eaten away to half their original size. Lastly, once again, always tie a knot at the end of your rope. Among these were some of the biggest names in climbing at the time, who also helped tremendously by putting up some excellent new routes. Every single bolt must be placed on solid rock. All of the above information has been extracted from the rock climbing guidebook for Kalymnos , which details 66 separate crags and 3,400 routes. In some respects the rock resembles that of Thailand, only a little sharper. The volunteers involved in rebolting routes on Kalymnos make every effort to check the overall condition of crags; but with so many routes, the feedback of other climbers is vital. Kalymnos in recent years has become the paradise of sports climbing. He didn’t do any climbing, but he did take some rather uninspiring photos of the crags. • Spring: Almost as good as autumn for climbing. Thus, a mountain route may be graded 5.6 (rock difficulty), A2 (aid difficulty), WI3 (ice climbing difficulty), M5 * (mixed climbing difficulty), 70 degrees (steepness), 4000 ft (length), VI (commitment level), and many other factors. 5. 1. The vast majority of route equippers follow this principle faithfully. Many climbers describe the equipping of routes on Kalymnos as “the gold standard of sport climbing.” Routes are generally equipped in a sensible and encouraging manner using stainless steel bolts. Stalactites sometimes drip in the spring and, as they are softer, they are more likely to break. All loose rock must be cleaned meticulously using a hammer and/or a crowbar, and vegetation in the line of a route must be removed. – sharp grey slabs full of water pockets (gouttes d’eau) with little iron knobs cemented into the matrix. It was little more than a thin brochure, which was funded by the local council and distributed for free to visiting climbers. Email the designated committee to inform them that you would like to equip new routes on Kalymnos. During her week on Kalymnos, Maja onsighted a total of 9 routes 8a or harder. However, most of the equippers intend to come back and finish the job. 17. Jeff Achey, editor at the time of Climbing magazine, was also there, and he subsequently wrote a 10-page article in issue #238 of Climbing. • The 4th Kalymnos Climbing Festival (22-26 May, 2009) was organized by the Municipality of Kalymnos and sponsored by the Greek National Tourism Organisation and the Greek sports company Polo. More details about that project here and here. • Summer: Better than you might think. We understand you wanting to help the nice people of Kalymnos and Telendos, but proper procedure still needs to be followed. But there are also more than 700 routes graded 7b and up, and the hardest confirmed grade on Kalymnos is a 9a (Los Revolucionarios at sector Odyssey, which was redpointed by Adam Ondra in 2009). Route lengths can never be exact, so always tie a knot at the unused end of your rope. They mostly set up routes in existing sectors Arhi, Spartan Wall, Grande Grotta, and established the first routes at Sikati Cave. The golden rule during any outdoor activity is always this: Leave no trace. The degrees of difficulty for the Kalymnian trails start from 4c ( for beginners) and reach up to 9c (for experienced climbers). It all started when a couple of famous Italian climbers visited the island and saw the huge potential it had in terms of climbing. Special guests were the already mega-talented 16-year-old Adam Ondra and 22-year-old Slovenian climbing champion Maja Vidmar, and more than 300 registered climbers from around the world got to admire them. • Do some gardening. So far, approximately 60 fields of sport climbing routes have been dug and delivered, most of them being of 'one pitch' type. Kalymnos / Telendos are becoming increasingly known for their harder climbs in the 8th and 9th difficulty levels and the passage from the island of great climbers. Names should be written discreetly, in Latin characters, at the base of the route in blue paint (not felt-tip pen, which disappears too soon). • This path doesn’t make sense! lower-offs on the first 43 routes were replaced at that time. This forum is more active. Bring some bug spray; the stronger the better. When the rock is very sharp, time should be devoted to smoothing out the ultra-sharp edges off the holds and footholds with the gentle use of a hammer or wire brush. Find out more…. Immediately after Adam sent Los Revolucionarios, on a dreadfully hot and humid day, he went on to Los Kukos 8c and just barely missed the onsight. Bolts: Because Kalymnos is a marine environment, stainless steel bolts and hangers must always be used, i.e. At a minimum, plan on 15 quickdraws + a 70m rope. There are a variety of crags on the island, caves, vertical walls, and even a long adventurous climb to the top of the north face. © 2020 Climb Kalymnos. She climbed beautifully and onsighted her first 8b on Kalymnos, Spartan Wall 20m, a vertical technical route with small holds. • These goats look hungry.   The highest achievement, perhaps, of the 2nd Kalymnos Climbing Festival was the opening of new routes in the 8a-9a range. The Kalymnos Rescue Team was formed in 2013. For example, the Read more about the 2nd Kalymnos Climbing Festival. The vast majority of these bolts is used for rebolting older routes rather than new routing. However, many remarkable long routes (40–45m) have been opened on Kalymnos in the past few years. Each lower-off should be equipped with two bolts joined by a chain carrying one or two stainless-steel carabiners for lowering. As a rule, if two lines share handholds or footholds, or if a route can be top-roped by clipping into the anchor of a nearby route, then the routes are too close to each other. Besides concealing holds and footholds, the plants may also conceal loose rock. In the email, also state: • your previous experience equipping sport routes; • the specifications of any hardware you plan to use, which must comply with the New Route Protocol guidelines; • the number of new routes you plan to equip; • and the location where you would like to equip them (sector, sub-sector, part of the island). The problems are organized into circuits and each circuit is color-coded for their degree of difficulty. Telendos is free of roads and has a very sleepy feel. Kalymnos offers over 3,500 climbing routes with multiple levels of difficulty. A new route is not just about bolting and cleaning. New routes should not be very close to each other or tightly squeezed between already existing routes. We recommend the thorough cleaning of existing holds. – who (name of injured climber and telephone number where you can be contacted); – what (type of injury, number of people injured, severity of injury); • Do not try to move the injured climber. From 2000 to 2010, Kalymnos was one of the few climbing areas where routes were checked and rebolted regularly by a professional mountain guide. It offers a great number and variety of lime stone rocks with different kinds of difficulty degrees (overhangs, caves with stalactites, slabs...). Where’s the toilet? Kalymnos is strictly a sport climbing venue—there is no bouldering or trad climbing. Proceeds from the sale of the Kalymnos guidebook are used every year to buy bolts, anchors, and other equipment; see below. Please respect this. So check the date in the guidebook, and avoid completing the bolting of unfinished projects until at least two years have gone by. Climb Kalymnos, a climbers’ paradise. Why should Kalymnos be any different? Since 2015, the local municipality has continued to throw together underwhelming annual festivals in September or October, even though Kalymnos has long outgrown any need for them. The island has various kinds of good quality limestone rocks with different difficulty degrees like overhangs, caves with stalactites and slabs. If you get approved to rebolt routes, know that after you are finished your work must also be evaluated and approved by a Greek certified mountain guide in accordance with the New Route Protocol. The single-bolt (!)   The Kalymnos Rescue Team is a legally registered Greek non-profit. They are now so accustomed to climbers that they will stop at nothing. About half of the routes on Kalymnos are graded up to 6b+, and more than one-third of the total routes are between 6a–6b+, so Kalymnos is ideal for new climbers, older climbers, or those transitioning from the gym to outdoor climbing. Since 2010, we buy the bolts, hangers, lower-offs, and other hardware ourselves. The history of climbing on Kalymnos is very recent. There is a climbing rescue service on Kalymnos. Since it was founded it has performed rescue operations for climbers and non-climbers alike, some under very adverse circumstances (weather, difficult access to the accident site, severe injuries, or all of the above). • What rope length: 70m is the minimum standard single rope length for Kalymnos (9–10.5mm diameter). • The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festivals (2012/2013/2014): The North Face stepped in to organize three consecutive festivals on Kalymnos (2012-2014) with a lineup of many top athletes. 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